Nethan Vines

This Gibson EBO bass had a broken truss rod, and the neck had too much bow in it. It is also very important to know the parts of a guitar neck for getting more idea on this. Because we could hear it rattling in the neck near the neck pickup we had a pretty good idea it was broken at the anchor.  The first step was to pull the rod out.  Ron tapped against the nut until he could get ahold of it with a Robogrip and PULLED!  Once it was out he could use it and magnets to locate the anchor.   Next step was to remove the last 2 frets and drill down into the fingerboard to hopefully expose the anchor with the broken end of the rod still in it.  It worked!  He cleaned out the hole and removed the anchor.  Since the rod was long enough he threaded the broken end and extended the threads on the other end where the nut goes.  Next he cut a new anchor from a piece of bar stock, drilled and tapped it.  The repaired rod was then waxed, threads and all,...

A phone call from a distraught Stage Tech. This guitar was slowly losing its headstock! The guitar belongs to Richard Oakes, the guitarist with Suede. This is his beloved guitar which has had the headstock broken and repaired once before. The Stage Tech had resorted to binding the headstock with Gaffer Tape in the hope that it would last a little longer until the end of the band’s tour. T he Process Fortunately the head veneer is still in one piece and undamaged. The break has occurred just underneath the top nut. So it is decided that the head veneer should be removed and replaced once the repair inserts have be added. The head veneer is clamped under a piece of perspex to keep it flat until needed later on. The Repair The idea is to join/re-glue the neck to the headstock (as best as). And once this is done reinforcing inserts can be added. A jig is made up to hold the guitar and headstock in place whilst the glue sets. Read More:  https://grahamparkerluthier.c...

I've been a guitar player for decades but only recently became serious about working on my instruments. In my research, I’ve found hundreds of articles about instrument repair, and while many are fantastic and chock full of information that’s invaluable to musicians, a lot is impractical or requires more space or specialized tools than most of us have. Plus, some repairs, such as fretwork, nut replacement, under-saddle pickup installation and finish repairs are best left to professionals. This isn’t to say you shouldn’t work on your own guitars, only that you should know your limits, which in many instances are related to having the right tools. What I found most challenging when getting started was knowing what tools I should buy, and which were not worth the money based on my skill level. From trial and error, I found what some repairs were simple and small-space friendly. Any of the repairs discussed can be done with just a clean and level space. All of these techniques w...

What Saddles Should I Get? So, you’ve decided on your new bridge but now you are unsure of which type of saddle to choose. Faber offer saddles in a range of materials: • Nickel Plated Brass • Aged Nickel Plated Brass • Natural Brass • Aged Natural Brass • Titanium All  Faber bridge saddles  are direct replacement parts and will fit any Faber bridge with removable saddles except for the Wraptonate model. All saddles are sold in packs of 3. 2 packs will be needed to re-saddle an entire bridge, each pack of 3 saddles includes the retaining clips. Retaining clips and bridge saddle screws are also available separately if replacements are required. Notched Vs. Unnotched All  Faber bridges  come pre-installed with notched saddles. This means you will be able to install your new bridge on your guitar and play away. The notches are considered “starter” notches and are dead center on the saddle. This means, they will be perfectly functional for your plain strings, h...

Replacement  guitar bridge saddles , with or without starter notches, and replacement bridge saddle screws. Note: These parts will only fit Faber® bridges, except Faber® WRAPTONATE™.Nickel Plated Saddles standard on all nickel plated bridges. Unplated natural brass saddles on all gloss or aged nickel plated bridges. There is no tone difference between nickel plated brass and natural brass. Choose for cosmetic preference.   Natural Brass Saddles optional on nickel plated bridges. There is no tone difference between natural brass and nickel plated brass. Choose for cosmetic preference. Gloss and Aged Gold bridges are standard with  polished  brass saddles which match the gloss gold bridge finish. Non pre-notched natural brass are  unpolished . Nickel plated brass saddles unavailable on gloss or aged gold bridges. HYBRIDge™ Option – a Faber® Exclusive!  Adds 3 titanium saddles for the wound E-A-D strings, resulting in a much clearer tone, e...